Stryn, Norway

Oppstrynsvatnet

There are places in Norway that are beautiful – and then there is Stryn.

We have stayed in this part of Western Norway a couple of times now, and I still think the landscape around Lovatnet, Oldevatnet and Oppstrynsvatnet is among the most beautiful we have seen in the country. Turquoise glacial lakes, waterfalls appearing almost everywhere you look, tiny farms, steep green mountains and snow-covered peaks in the distance. It is almost ridiculously picturesque.

This time we rented a cabin through Airbnb in Flo, by Oppstrynsvatnet. It was wonderfully peaceful and we had our own little beach directly by the lake. We had brought two SUP boards with us, and paddling out onto that almost unreal green water in the evening was probably one of my favourite moments of the trip.

Flo is quite secluded, though, and next time I might choose to stay a little closer to Stryn simply for easier access to shops and restaurants.

Oppstrynsvatnet & Hjelle

Oppstrynsvatnet might be my favourite of the three lakes. The water has that incredible glacial green colour and the mountains rise almost vertically around it.

At the eastern end of the lake you will find Hjelle, a tiny and wonderfully quiet village that still feels slightly under the radar. There is a small place to swim here, and it is a lovely stop if you are driving towards the mountains and Gamle Strynefjellsvegen.

We have previously stayed at Lidasanden, directly on Oppstrynsvatnet, which I can still highly recommend. The cabins sit almost on the water and the location is spectacular.

Read my previous post about Lidasanden here:

Cabin With a View – Lidasanden
https://heebunediaries.com/2020/07/05/cabin-with-a-view/

Briksdalsbreen

One of the classic trips in the area is Briksdalsbreen, an arm of the enormous Jostedalsbreen glacier.

We chose to hike all the way up. The trail takes you through a dramatic valley past waterfalls and eventually towards the glacier, and although this is one of the area’s most visited attractions, it is absolutely worth doing.

If you don’t want to walk the entire way, the famous little Troll Cars can take you most of the way up, leaving approximately a 15-minute walk to the glacier.

My tip would definitely be to go early in the morning or later in the afternoon. Olden is a cruise port and Briksdalsbreen is one of the most popular excursions for cruise passengers, so the middle of the day can become very busy. We would aim to arrive well before 10 am or wait until after 3 pm.

Troll Cars & practical information:
https://en.briksdal.no/booking-trollbil

Hiking to Rakssetra

Another favourite was Rakssetra, above Loen.

It is not a particularly long hike – roughly an hour up according to the official route information – but it is steep enough to make you work for it. And then you arrive.

The little traditional summer farm appears on the mountainside with an extraordinary panorama towards Loen, Olden and the fjord below. It is one of those places where the view feels almost too perfect to be real.

The old wooden cabins are privately owned and still used as summer houses, so remember that Rakssetra isn’t an open-air museum. Wander around respectfully and give the cabins and their owners some space.

You can also continue higher towards Oppheimsetra and Hoven, where the trails eventually connect with the mountain area above Loen Skylift.

Hiking information:
https://www.nordfjord.no/en/rakssetra

Lovatnet & Breng

We also spent time around Lovatnet, another spectacular turquoise lake just outside Loen.

One of the loveliest places to stop is Breng, an old farm settlement right by the water. Bring a towel, some food and simply stay for a while – this is exactly the kind of place where doing very little becomes the whole point.

We also spent time around Loen Brygge, which is lovely for an easy afternoon or evening after hiking.

A local recommended that we continue all the way through Lodalen towards Kjenndal, at the far end of Lovatnet. We didn’t manage it this time, but it is firmly on the list for our next visit.

Oldevatnet

And then there is Oldevatnet.

If I were planning the trip again, this might actually be where I would choose to stay. There is something incredibly beautiful about this long turquoise lake surrounded by mountains and glaciers.

Oldevatn Camping in particular has one of those locations that makes you reconsider everything you thought you knew about camping. It sits directly by the lake, surrounded by mountains, and also has cabins if sleeping in a tent isn’t quite your thing.

Oldevatn Camping:
https://www.oldevatn.com/

A few places for next time

There are still so many places around Stryn we haven’t explored.

A local recommended Dispaholmen near Strynefjellet, which we didn’t manage to visit, and I would also love to spend more time driving the old mountain road, Gamle Strynefjellsvegen.

And if you have a full day, you can easily drive across the mountains to Geiranger. We did this on our previous stay and it makes for a spectacular day trip – although I personally wouldn’t rush away from Stryn. There is more than enough here to fill several days.

Where to stay

There aren’t endless hotel options around the lakes, and honestly, I think that is part of the charm.

For families, renting a cabin or house is perfect. This time we found ours through Airbnb in Flo, directly on Oppstrynsvatnet. Last time we stayed at Lidasanden, which has a more convenient location while still giving you that wonderful feeling of waking up right beside the lake.

If I were booking another summer trip tomorrow, however, I would be very tempted by a little cabin at Oldevatn Camping.

Bring hiking shoes, swimwear and – if you have room in the car – a SUP board.

Because the real luxury here isn’t a fancy hotel 😉

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