Bondhusvatnet: A Beautiful Short Hike, Hardanger, Norway

A Little Detour to Bondhusvatnet

Sometimes the places you don’t really know what to expect from turn out to be the ones you remember the most.

On our way from Odda back towards Bergen, we decided to make a little detour to Bondhusvatnet; a glacier lake hidden in Bondhusdalen, close to Sundal in the Hardanger region. It has been on my bucketlist for many years, and I finally got to go.

We knew it was supposed to be beautiful. We didn’t quite expect this.

A short hike with a very big reward

The walk to Bondhusvatnet is wonderfully uncomplicated: around 2.3–2.5 kilometres each way, following a gently climbing gravel road through the valley. At a relaxed pace, you can expect around two hours for the return walk, although you will probably want to spend some time at the lake itself. (Hardanger)

There is a large paid parking area at the beginning of the trail, and we arrived sometime during the morning.

It was raining. Normally that isn’t exactly what you hope for when setting off on a hike in Norway, but this time the rain turned out to be very much in our favour. There were hardly any people around.

Following the river into Bondhusdalen

Almost immediately, the walk feels like entering another world.

The trail follows the beautiful Bondhuselva river, with clear glacier water rushing between huge moss-covered rocks, surrounded by dense green forest. It felt almost fairytale-like – particularly in the rain, when everything became even greener.

This is not a hike where you need to wait until the end for the scenery. The walk itself is part of the experience.

But then you reach the lake. And everything opens up.

Bondhusvatnet

It is difficult to describe quite how beautiful Bondhusvatnet is when you first see it.

Turquoise glacier water. Enormous mountains rising almost vertically around it. Moss-covered rocks scattered through the water. Waterfalls appearing in the distance.

And when we arrived, almost complete silence. A small group left just as we reached the lake, which meant that for a while we had the entire place to ourselves. We stood there in the soft rain, looking across the water, and it felt slightly unreal.

Then the rain stopped. And eventually, the sun came out. And then we discovered the glacier

What we hadn’t realised before arriving was that there was another surprise hidden behind the clouds.

We noticed Bondhusbreen mentioned on an information board by the lake. Bondhusbreen is an arm of the much larger Folgefonna glacier, and on clear days you can see it high above the lake. (Hardanger)

We hadn’t even known it was there.

As the clouds slowly lifted from the mountains, a strip of blue-white glacier suddenly appeared between them. It was one of those perfect travel moments you could never really have planned.

We stayed for a while, had some snacks, watched the weather change across the mountains and simply enjoyed having this extraordinary place almost entirely to ourselves.

Timing is everything

Walking back down, we realised just how lucky we had been.

More and more people started coming towards us. And then more.

By the time we reached the bottom, the parking area that had been relatively quiet when we arrived was completely full.

Bondhusvatnet is one of the most popular hikes in Hardanger, so our rainy morning had accidentally given us something rather special. (Hardanger)

If I were visiting again, I would absolutely aim for early morning, particularly during the busier months.

And don’t necessarily let a little rain put you off. Norwegian weather changes incredibly quickly, as we experienced more than once on this trip. Sometimes the rain is exactly what gives you the place to yourself.

Good to know before hiking to Bondhusvatnet

Distance: 5 km return
Time: Around 2 hours return at a relaxed pace
Difficulty: Easy
Elevation: Approximately 135 metres
Trail: A gravel road
Parking: Paid parking at Bondhusdalen; currently NOK 125 per day
Facilities: Toilets are available by the parking area. (Hardanger)

The walk is considered easy and is suitable for families. The official tourism information even notes that the main route can be managed with a stroller. (Hardanger)

One important thing to know: swimming in Bondhusvatnet is not permitted, as the lake provides drinking water for the local communities of Bondhus and Sundal. (Hardanger)

And if you plan to continue beyond the lake towards Bondhusbreen, check the current conditions and signs. Access further into the valley can be restricted because of glacial conditions; the innermost section is closed during summer 2026. (Hardanger)

Is Bondhusvatnet worth the detour?

Completely.

After hiking Trolltunga the day before, this was an entirely different kind of experience. No long day in the mountains, no big physical challenge – just an easy walk into one of the most beautiful landscapes we saw in Hardanger.

For such a short hike, the reward is almost ridiculous: The river, the turquoise water, the enormous mountains, the rain, the silence – and finally watching Bondhusbreen emerge from behind the clouds.

Definitely make the detour. Period.

Trolltunga, Hardanger, Norway

A person standing on a rocky cliff edge with arms raised in celebration, overlooking a deep fjord surrounded by mountains and a blue sky with clouds.
Trolltunga

A Mini Guide to Hiking Trolltunga, Norway

There are some places that are even more spectacular than you imagine them to be. Trolltunga was one of them.

Of course, the famous rock itself is incredible – jutting out around 700 metres above Ringedalsvatnet with nothing but mountains and water around you. But what surprised me most was that hiking Trolltunga wasn’t really just about reaching the Troll’s Tongue.

The entire hike was spectacular.

Hours of walking through raw Norwegian mountain landscapes, past lakes, streams and endless views. No roads, no cafés, no shortcuts – just nature. The kind of scenery you only really get to experience when you’re willing to walk quite far to get there.

And yes, it is a long day. But absolutely worth it.

Planning the Trolltunga hike – and watching the weather

We had booked P3 Mågelitopp parking for two different dates several months in advance, giving ourselves some flexibility depending on the weather. And we needed it. Right up until our trip, the forecast basically said: rain, rain, rain.

On the morning of our hike there was still quite a lot of fog, which made us slightly nervous as we started walking. But after around 30 minutes, the sun suddenly appeared – and stayed with us almost all the way until the descent.

Coming down, we had a beautiful mix of sunshine and clouds, and the rain didn’t arrive until that evening when we were safely back at the hotel. Sometimes you simply get lucky in Norway.

My biggest advice would be to keep an eye on the weather, prepare for it to change and, if possible, give yourself some flexibility when planning your hiking day. Don’t do the hike if it really is a full raingy day, the rocks will be way to slippery to climb (and there are a lot of those).

The official Trolltunga website is also the place to check trail conditions, weather advice and practical information before setting out.

Starting from P3 Mågelitopp

We had rented a car and drove ourselves to P3 Mågelitopp, the highest of the three Trolltunga parking areas.

Starting from P3 makes quite a difference: the hike from here is approximately 20 km return, compared with around 27 km if you start at P2 Skjeggedal.

Our parking access started at 7 AM and we arrived around 7.15 AM, which worked perfectly. P3 has very limited parking, so if you’re planning to drive yourself during the main season, I would definitely recommend looking into booking it well in advance.

If you don’t have a car – or don’t manage to get a P3 parking space – there are also Trolltunga shuttle buses from Odda towards the trailhead and from P2 Skjeggedal up to P3 Mågelitopp.

From P3, it took us just under four hours to reach Trolltunga and around three and a half hours to walk back down.

We stayed at the top for approximately an hour, having lunch, taking photos and simply enjoying the view. So in total, this was very much a full-day adventure.

What we packed for Trolltunga

We each carried a 33-litre backpack, which was plenty for a day hike.

One thing we discovered was that there are lots of natural water sources along the trail. We therefore only carried two ½-litre bottles each and refilled them with fresh mountain water along the way instead of carrying litres of water from the beginning.

For lunch, we brought packed food that we had made/bought at our hotel, together with raw bars, protein bars and – obviously, when hiking in Norway – Kvikk Lunsj.

We also packed extra wool socks, gloves and beanies, although luckily we never needed them.

What we wore

Layers are definitely the answer.

We hiked in ski base layers, hiking trousers, wool socks, fleece and shell jackets, so we could easily adjust throughout the day.

And then there were the boots.

I wore my Merrell hiking boots, and they were genuinely one of the best decisions I made for this trip. With so many hours on rocky and uneven terrain, having proper hiking boots made a huge difference – especially towards the end of the day when the kilometres start to feel slightly longer.

We had also bought foldable hiking poles specifically for the trip. Another very good decision. They don’t take up much space in your backpack when you don’t need them, but they were brilliant on some of the steeper sections and especially helpful on the descent.

Staying in Odda

We based ourselves in Odda, approximately 30 minutes by car from the Trolltunga parking area, and stayed at Trolltunga Hotel.

It was practical and comfortable, although I think a small Airbnb or another hotel in Odda would work equally well. The most important thing for us was simply being close enough to get an early start.

The hotel was also able to help us with food for the hike, which made the early morning much easier.

After Trolltunga, we had dinner at Odda Lothepus by the campsite. A slightly quirky Viking-style restaurant – fun, relaxed and exactly the kind of place where you don’t mind arriving after spending an entire day on a mountain.

On the way leaving Odda, we went by the Flåtefoss waterfall, just 6 minutes from Odda.

Bergen, Voss and a swim in Norwegian mountain water

We flew into Bergen, where we of course had to see Bryggen before heading towards Odda. The colourful old wharf is UNESCO World Heritage-listed and, even if you only have a little time in Bergen, definitely worth seeing. We had good weather upon arrival, so we also tried the “Fløjbanen” train up to Bergen mountain for the viewpoint and the (surpricingly) large park just behind it. And had lunch in the Fish Market by the water. A perfect start to a 3nights/4 days stay.

Instead of driving directly from Bergen to Odda, however, we went via Voss for one very specific reason:

A swim. We stopped at Bjørkemoen Badeplass to swim in the incredibly clear Voss water. 10/10 recommendation.

It’s such a simple stop, but swimming surrounded by Norwegian nature was the perfect way to begin the trip.

Was hiking Trolltunga worth it?

Completely.

Trolltunga was one of those rare travel experiences where the reality somehow manages to live up to all the photographs you’ve seen beforehand.

But again: don’t hike Trolltunga only for Trolltunga. The magic is the entire journey there.

Walking for hours through this enormous Norwegian landscape, with mountains stretching in every direction, drinking water straight from the streams and watching the weather move across the peaks made the hike feel like much more than ticking off an iconic viewpoint. It was wild, peaceful, exhausting and incredibly beautiful.

There is something very special about reaching places that you simply can’t drive to. Places where the only way in is to walk.

And somewhere along those kilometres, surrounded by nothing but mountains, water and Norwegian wilderness, you remember just how small you are.

Trolltunga was one of those days I know I’ll remember for a very long time.

Trolltunga – quick facts from our hike

Where: Trolltunga, Hardanger, Norway
Where we stayed: Trolltunga Hotel, Odda
Starting point: P3 Mågelitopp
Distance from P3: Approx. 20 km return
Start: Around 7.15 AM
Hiking time up: Just under 4 hours
Time at Trolltunga: Around 1 hour
Hiking time down: Around 3.5 hours
Backpack: 33 litres
Water: Two ½-litre bottles each, refilled along the trail
What we wore: Cool base layers, hiking trousers, wool socks, fleece and shell jackets
Our essentials: Proper hiking boots, foldable hiking poles, food, snacks and layers
Getting there: Flight to Bergen + rental car via Voss to Odda
Would I do it again? 100%.

Useful links for planning your Trolltunga hike

Official Trolltunga website – trail information, preparation and conditions

P3 Mågelitopp parking – parking information and booking details

Trolltunga shuttle buses – transport from Odda/P2 to the trail

Trolltunga Hotel – where we stayed in Odda

Bryggen, Bergen – UNESCO – information about Bergen’s historic wharf